THE 70 DAY ADVENTURE SOUTH WEST FINLAND-THROUGH THE BLACK SEA TO ITALY

Kikka and I started from our island Hjortoe on Monday 27th. The journey went through Mariehamn, Aaland, where I had our my kast crayfish for this season. It was with a strange feeling I looked back on our island, wondering wether and when I would see it again.

The following day we drove all the way to Stockholm, where we went through the lock and moored on the lake, Maelaren.

On Wedensday 29th, Michael Edgrenandhis girlfriend Maud joined us for our trip to Lubeck, Germany. The first day we drove to the fabolous restaurant OAXEN’S SKAERGAARDS KROG. Michael picked up the bill, which was huge but well worth it , although the calf was a little bit tough

Next day we cruised and actually had to sway through the aramda of sailing yachts that were coming against us heading for STOCKHOLM as the Swedish vacation time was to end. After a long day´s journey we found a beatiful nature harbour and moored against a cliff, well protected. As Kikka and I had had our traditional crayfish party the previous weekend we were well euipped for many gourmet lunches and dinners from the leftovers.

On Friday, the startengine of the starboard engine refused to kick in. The local rapirshop at Vaestervik could not help us, but gave the phonenumber to a repairman that adviced us to hit the starting engine at the same time that the other person turned the ignition – and it worked and we have hadn´t had any problems since. Then we had a rough and rainy crossing to Borgholm, Oelaend and it took a Bourbon & Ginger Ale or two for the capatain and crew to gain back their strength. After a fine dinner at the EDELMAN RESTAURANT of the Strand Hotel, we were alright though.

Following day easy crossing to the town of Kalmar and an early night as Michael and I had planned to make the crossing to Christiansoe, Denmark, starting 5.00 am

So on Sunday morning August  2nd, we woke up 4.45 and 5.00 sharp we started the 110 Nm crossing on a dead calm sea. After 3 hours the wind picked up and we had to take down the speed to 17 knots as Maud was bumping along in her berth in the bow.

But at 9.40 we arrived to the lovely small fishing community of Christansoe just off the coast of the island of Bornholm. After one ”Gammel Dansk” and a round trip around the island and a proper breakfast,we deided to contine to the small willage of Svaneke in Bornholm. Cappuccino, however, had different ideas and refused to gain rounds and we had to cruise at 10 knots for the luckily short distance to Svaneke. When we arrived at the fuel station, one bystander asked us where we were heading and I explained that we should find somebody who could help us change fuel filters, as this was the likely problem. He, Ivan Jensen, immediately voluntered to come onboard and do it and after 1 hour it was done and after a trial we concluded that the problem was fixed. Ivan refused to accept any money, but as it was his birtday he was rewarded by the captain for 1 bottle of Champagne – I herby take back any bad mouthing of the Danish people, I ever have done ! What a friendly people they are ! As the harbour aloowed the swell, we decide to go the next harbour, Nexoe, where we moored for the night.

Next day we had lunch at the local fishrestaurent – fried soles, very delicious. The lunch, however, delayed us and as we turned the corner of Bornholm, we realized that swell had picked up and we were in for a heavy crossing to Germany. Stupidly we all had dressed very lightly as it 30 oC in Bornholm and with the swell there was no way we could move inside. There we were in our short and t-shirts, the swell washed over us on the flybridge and after 3 1/2 hours we were finally in the harbour of Stassnitz, in the former East Germany. Both Kikka and I had to take a burning hot shower to get the body temperature back to normal – along with two toddies. Never have I been so cold in summertime !

Stassnitz is a mixture of the old East Germany but with a busy harbour street filled with small italian restaurants, which obviously have popped up during the last 15 years of market economy.

The old days of communistic hierarchy has still left its trail though. As we asked the harbour master for water to bunker, we were told to drive the boat near his office and he would then come down and open the tap, which we did. The harbour master was however nowhere to be seen. Michael and I walked up to his office  and were greeted by his secretary, which showed us to his office. There he sat with a perfect view over the jetty and Cappuccino and had nothing to do. We were told to sit down and before we did that he refused to talk to us. He the uttered the magig word:”Ah so, Sie brauchen wasser , Ich komme !”. We then walked back and wairted another 10 minutes before he came down and opened the tap. Slowly he wlked over to us and told us to fold the hose when we were ready. The whole operation took about 30 minutes, but he made his point that he was the person in charge..

We then continued around the North Side of the island of Ruegen, the warm weather had finally kicked in and with no wind we were all in our swimming gear going 23 knots and compulsay drinks in hand; Bourbon&Ginger Ale for the boys and G&T for the girls !

Straalsund turned out to be the higlight of the trip along the German Coast. A very beatiful Hansa town with a lovely square where the captain had freid eel – delicious !

The journey continued to Warnemunde, which is the harbour of Rostock – very busy and we had to moor on a passengership´s space – knowing we had  to move at any time. We manage to have lunch  and even do the dishes, when the local Coast Guard showed up and hunk their horn, which almost made the Captain choke on his Magno. Somehow my old school german has kicked in and I manage to explain that we were just leaving and was greeted by a friendly wink. We then continued to Wismar and half an hour before arrival, I wanted to swim and put the engines in neuttral and dived in among the huge jelly fish. The water must have been at least 25 oC as it did not feel cold cold at all. Afterwards, when I tried to gain speed, the engines did not cooperate again. We made it to Wismar with 9 knots, which turned out to be the speed limit anyway, so it did not really matter. The harbour master gave us a perfect spot where we could moor alongside. The local repairshop was just 100 meters away and next morning two guys showed up and emptied  the pree fuel filters, which turned out to contain black residues from the tanks. Luckily I had sparefilters with me and the engines spun like ever before. Now I have solved the problem, which I havehad for the last two summers. The key is no to change the ordinary fuel filters of the engines, but  to empty the pree-filter containers and then add new dieseloil, about 1 litre in each container.